Cellar Raid Highlight: Women In Winemaking
Cellar Raid: Half Priced Bottles of 750ml Wine Every Tuesday in our Enoteca.
The history of women in winemaking is a rich yet often underrepresented narrative, particularly in regions like Italy, where traditional gender roles once dominated. For centuries, women played crucial roles in vineyard management and wine production, albeit often in the shadows of their male counterparts. However, as the 20th century unfolded, women began to step forward as leaders, innovators, and visionaries in the wine industry.
In Italy, women were often confined to supporting roles in family businesses, tending the vineyards, and managing the household while men worked in the cellar and handled the commercial side of the winery. They worked just as hard, if not harder than their husbands while remaining in the shadows. These women absorbed vast knowledge about the land, the vines, and the winemaking process. During wars or economic hardships, when men were absent, many women were forced to take over vineyard operations entirely, showcasing their capabilities but rarely, if ever, receiving public recognition for their expertise.
By the latter half of the 20th century, a cultural shift began to take place. Education became more accessible to women, and several trailblazers emerged, claiming their family estates or launching their own wineries. They were driven not only by passion but a deep connection to the land that had been passed down through generations. At the same time, the rise of international markets and growing interest in wine allowed for a broader platform for these women to share their work with the world.
The Barolo Boys was a group of young, innovative winemakers in the 1980s and 1990s who revolutionized the traditional Barolo wine scene in Italy’s Piemonte region. Their approach was controversial at the time, as they embraced modern techniques such as shorter macerations and aging in new French oak barrels, which produced more approachable wines compared to the more austere, long-aged traditional Barolos. Though the movement was initially male-dominated, Chiara Boschis was introduced to the Barolo Boys and became the only woman of the group and a key player in this transformation. She stood alongside her male peers, adopting modern practices while remaining deeply committed to the region’s heritage. Chiara brought a fresh perspective to the movement, balancing innovation with a dedication to organic farming, which has become one of her signatures. Her inclusion in the Barolo Boys group not only highlighted her winemaking talent but also paved the way for more women to step into leadership roles within the world of Barolo and wine in general.
Chiara Boschis is one of the pivotal figures in this movement and is the first woman winemaker in Langhe. Her family left their estate to her brothers. She protested and begged for her parents to leave their winery in her hands, but they insisted that the men in the family should remain in charge. A Boschis’ family friend and owners of the E. Pira & Figli winery became available when the last of the family had passed and with no heirs. Chiara was able to purchase the estate with the help of her family and by the 1980s, E. Pira & Figli became hers and has been legendary ever since.
In the northern region of Trentino, Elisabeth Foradori has become synonymous with the indigenous grape Teroldego Rotiliano. When she took over the family estate at just 20 years old, Foradori dedicated herself to reviving the nearly forgotten varietal. This responsibility came at a time when the family’s vineyards were in a decline, and Teroldigo Rotiliano was almost forgotten, dismissed by many as inferior to the more popular international varieties gaining ground in the region.
Faced with the challenge of managing an estate in a male-dominated industry, Elisabeth had to fight not only for the survival of her family’s winery but also to revive Teroldigo Rotiliano, a grape that few believed had real potential. Foradori encountered skepticism from both peers and consumers as she set out to re-establish Teroldigo Rotiliano as a premium wine grape. At the time, most winemakers in Trentino were focused on high-yield practices, which prioritized quantity over quality. Forador, however, believed that the future lay in restoring the health of the land and focusing on quality.
By the 2000s, Foradori had become a pioneer not only for Teroldigo Rotiliano but for biodynamic winemaking in Italy. Her estate is now fully certified, and her wines are celebrated internationally for purity, energy, and expression of the Trentino terroir. Elisabeth’s decision to go against the grain - to reject industrial methods and instead focus on natural winemaking - set her apart as a leader. Her journey has inspired countless other women (and men) in the industry to follow a more sustainable path and to trust in the uniqueness of indigenous grapes.
Today, the number of women studying viticulture and enology is rising significantly, and more women are taking reins at top wineries. Women’s wine associations, such as Le Donne del Vino (Women of Wine), have support, mentorship, and visibility for women across Italy’s wine regions.
The history of women in winemaking is a story of resilience, passion, and breaking barriers. These women have not only transformed how wine is made in Italy but also how it is perceived globally. Their contributions have enriched the world of wine, ensuring that future generations can savor not only their exceptional wines but also the legacies they’ve built.
This Week’s Featured Selections:
Barolo, E. Pira E Figli - Chiara Boschis “Cannubi” 2020
The 2020 Cannubi opens with a stunning bouquet of red cherries, roses, and subtle notes of spice, underpinned by earthy, mineral tones that speak to the unique composition of Cannubi’s soils. On the palate, it’s both powerful and graceful - silky tannins wrap around flavors of ripe cherry, plum, and a touch of anise, all lifted by a refreshing acidity. This is a bottle that will make any occasion feel special. Don’t miss out on this beautiful expression of a legendary vineyard, crafted by one of the most talented winemakers of her generation.
Vigneti delle Dolomiti Teroldego, Foradori “Morei” 2021
This is not just any red wine - it’s the pure expression of the indigenous Teroldigo Rotiliano grape, masterfully created by one of Italy’s most iconic winemakers, Elisabeth Foradori. The Morei 2021 comes from vines rooted deep in the stony, alluvial soils near the Dolomites, which impart an incredible minerality and depth to the wine. The name “Morei” itself means “dark” in local dialect, hinting at the intense, deep color and bold flavors you’ll discover in this bottle. Aged in amphorae, this wine is both vibrant and structured, allowing the natural energy of Teroldigo Rotiliano to shine without the influence of oak. Expect aromas of dark berries, wild herbs, and a hint of earthiness that reflects the rugged beauty of the region. On the palate, it is incredibly fresh and lively, with concentrated flavors of black cherry, plum, and a touch of spice. Silky tannins and a long mineral-driven finish make this wine both powerful and beautifully balanced, with an elegance that will impress any wine lover. .
Chiara Boschis and Emilia Plotkin at Cinghiale
