Cellar Raid Highlight: Nebbiolo, The King of Piemonte
Nebbiolo is the king of Piemonte, and its wines - especially Barolo and Barbaresco - are considered the crown jewels of the region. The towns of Alba, Barolo, and Barbaresco, nestled in the rolling hills of Langhe, have become pilgrimage sites for wine enthusiasts. There is a sense of reverence for Nebbiolo in this area, as the grape is treated with meticulous care and almost a spiritual respect. Winemakers and locals alike take great pride in Nebbiolo’s ability to express the terroir and the unique characteristics of each vineyard plot.
The culture surrounding Nebbiolo is one of patience and tradition. The grape is notoriously slow to ripen, and some of the wines can require years of aging to reach their full potential. This has fostered a slow, deliberate approach to winemaking and life in the region, where the philosophy of waiting for the right moment is essential.
Nebbiolo based wines, especially Barolo and Barbaresco, are known for their long aging potential. Traditionally, these wines were aged in large oak botti for many years before release. While modern winemaking has shortened some aging times, the culture of producing an age-worthy product has remained a core value. Opening an older bottle of Barolo, especially from a renowned vintage or producer, is often seen as a celebratory event - a moment to connect with history.
This aspect of Nebbiolo culture ties into the Italian way of approaching life’s finer moments slowly, over a long meal, with good company. Drinking Nebbiolo wine, especially from a significant vintage, is about savoring the passage of time and craftsmanship.
Nebbiolo’s high acidity and robust tannins make it a perfect pairing for the hearty, rich cuisine of Piemonte. Our kitchen has a strong focus on traditional Piedmontese dishes like Tajarin, Agnolotti, and Gnocchetti which are perfect companions to the powerful, complex nature of Nebbiolo wines. Nebbiolo is considered the heart of the cellar and the heart of the kitchen. In this culture, food and wine are inseparable, with Nebbiolo taking center stage at many meals and celebrations.
Many of the producers in Piemonte have been making Nebbiolo wines for generations. Family wineries like Giacomo Conterno, Elio Grasso, Paolo Scavino, and E. Pira E Figli – Chiara Boschis have passed down knowledge and traditions over centuries, making Nebbiolo winemaking a deeply personal and generational pursuit. These winemaking families have cultivated a culture of excellence and continuity, where the vineyard practices and winemaking techniques are often as much about preserving family legacy as they are about producing great wine.
While tradition is essential in the world of Nebbiolo, there has also been a cultural shift in recent decades. The so-called “Barolo Boys” of the 90s introduced new winemaking techniques, such as shorter maceration periods and the use of smaller oak botti, which resulted in more approachable wines in their youth. The blending of innovation with tradition has created a dynamic tension in the Nebbiolo culture, where both styles - traditional and modern - are celebrated and debated among wine enthusiasts.
Nebbiolo culture is one of approbation, patience, and deep connection to place and history. From fog-covered vineyards of Piemonte to collectors’ cellars across the globe, the grape has inspired a devoted following. Whether it’s in the slow methodical crafting of age-worthy Barolo, the meticulous vineyard management, or the joy of pairing it with rich local dishes, Nebbiolo represents the height of Italian winemaking and its impact on the world stage.
This Week’s Featured Selections:
Gattinara, Conterno – Cantine Nervi 2019
The Nebbiolo based wine comes from Giacomo Conterno’s Gattinara estate. The Gattinara appellation is in Northern Piemonte and is renowned for producing Nebbiolo wines with a unique personality, shaped by its volcanic soils and alpine climate. These conditions impart a vibrant minerality, excellent structure, and a fresh, lifted acidity to the wines. Unlike Barolo or Barbaresco, Gattinara Nebbiolos tend to have a more ethereal, almost haunting elegance, with a focus on finesse rather than sheer power. With the first sip, you are knocked into a wall of structure. It shows a core of pure bright red cherries and raspberries with herbaceous and woody notes hitting mid-palate. There is a perfect balance of rich fruit flavors and refined tannins that do not overpower.
Barbaresco Riserva, Produttori del Barbaresco “Montestefano” 2014
Montestefano is one of the most revered single vineyard sites in Barbaresco, and in the hands of Produttori del Barbaresco, it becomes an unforgettable wine. The nose is dark-tones with notes of forest floor and potpourri. You will find flavors of deep dark berries, violets, and a touch of something savory and smokey. The 2014 vintage is quite muscular offering exceptional depth with many layers and silky smooth tannins. This is a wine that demands attention at the table.
Barolo, E. Pira E Figli – Chiara Boschis “Mosconi” 2017
A Barolo that is boisterous, elegant, and funky all at the same time. This young, yet approachable wine is alive and ready to be enjoyed! On the nose you will find rose and violets, a little bit of brine, and tart perfumed red fruits. Bursting with juicy high acidity, flavors of pomegranate, red cherries, and an earthy minerality make way. There is a good amount of oak influence creating secondary notes of vanilla, fennel, and pine resin. The Mosconi vineyard is known for producing some of the most powerful Barolos in Monforte d’Alba. This is a wine of true depth that will reward those with a penchant for robust, yet sophisticated Barolos.