Cellar Raid Highlight: Wine Rebels of Italy – Revolution in the Vineyard
Cellar Raid: Half Priced Bottles of 750ml Wine Every Tuesday in our Enoteca.
Italy’s winemaking heritage is a rich tapestry woven with centuries of tradition. The country’s appellation systems, such as DOC and DOCG, have long upheld these traditions by dictating strict rules on grape varieties, blending percentages, and aging requirements. While this framework has protected the regional identity of wines like Barolo, Chianti, and Valpolicella, it has also imposed limits on creativity, leaving little room for experimentation. But in the 1970s, a quiet rebellion began in the hills of Toscana, where a few visionary producers dared to challenge the status quo, rewriting the rules of Italian wine.
At the heart of this movement was the Chianti region, which had become synonymous with its iconic straw-wrapped bottles of simple table wine. The DOC regulations at the time mandated the inclusion of white grapes like Trebbiano and Malvasia in Chianti blends, which often diluted the wine’s quality. Frustrated by these restrictions, producers like Montevertine and Antinori decided to step outside the confines of the DOC system to craft wines that prioritized excellence over tradition. This rebellion gave rise to the “Super Tuscan” movement, a category of wines that eschewed DOC labels in favor of groundbreaking blends and pure varietal expressions.
Montevertine’s Le Pergole Torte became a symbol of this defiance. Sergio Manetti, the visionary behind Montevertine, left the Chianti DOCG in 1981 to focus exclusively on 100% Sangiovese wines, rejecting the requirement to blend in white grapes. His wines showcased the elegance, structure, and depth of Sangiovese in a way that was unprecedented, earning acclaim and inspiring other winemakers to follow suit. Similarly, Antinori revolutionized Tuscan winemaking with Tignanello, the first wine in the region to blend Sangiovese with Cabernet Sauvignon and age it in small French oak barrels. When it debuted in the 1970s, Tignanello was labeled a humble “Vino da Tavola”, or “Table Wine” because it broke DOC rules, yet it quickly gained international renown for its bold innovation and exceptional quality.
The rebellion didn’t stop in Toscana. It spread to other corners of Italy, where winemakers like Josko Gravner in Friuli, Elisabetta Foradori in Trentino, and COS in Sicily began crafting wines that defied convention while staying deeply connected to the land. These rebels embraced biodynamics, amphorae fermentation, and indigenous varietals, producing wines that rejected industrial uniformity. COS’s Cerasuolo di Vittoria, Foradori’s Granato, and Gravner’s Pignolo are all modern-day icons of Italy’s winemaking counterculture.
The legacy of Super Tuscans and their contemporaries is one of courage, creativity, and a refusal to compromise. By breaking free of rigid regulations, they expanded the possibilities of Italian wine, demonstrating that innovation and tradition can coexist. Today, their wines represent not just a rebellion against the past, but a celebration of individuality and artistry that makes Italian wine so extraordinary. For those who seek the unexpected, these rebellious bottles are a journey into the heart of Italy’s most daring and visionary winemakers.
This Week’s Featured Selections:
Toscana, Montevertine “Le Pergole Torte” 2017
Montevertine’s “Le Pergole Torte” is the pinnacle of Sangiovese elegance, hailing from Radda in Chianti. Renowned for its purity and complexity, it balances vibrant cherry and plum notes with subtle smoky undertones and refined structure. A cellar-worthy gem, this wine offers unparalleled finesse and enduring prestige.
Toscana, Antinori “Tignanello” 2020
This Super Tuscan icon blends Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Cabernet Franc with elegance and power. Vibrant cherry and cassis meet cedar and spice, with polished tannins and vibrant acidity. A timeless classic, a perfect expression of Tuscan innovation.
Cerasuolo di Vittoria, Az. Ag. COS “Fontane” 2012
This Cerasuolo di Vittoria is a benchmark for Sicilia’s only DOCG wine, masterfully blending Nero d’Avola and Frappato. This vintage exudes vibrant red berry and cherry aromas with layers of Mediterranean herbs, earth, and a touch of spice. Silky tannins and bright acidity deliver exceptional balance and elegance. A pure, authentic expression of Sicilian terroir.
