Cellar Raid Highlight: Vertical Tasting - A Journey Through Time in a Bottle
Cellar Raid: Half Priced Bottles of 750ml Wine Every Tuesday in our Enoteca.
This week, we’re diving into something special: a vertical wine tasting. If you’ve never experienced one, you’re in for a treat. A vertical tasting involves sampling different vintages of the same wine from the same producer. It is a fascinating way to see how the wine evolves over time, reflecting the unique conditions of each growing season, while also giving us a deeper appreciation for the artistry and consistency of the winemaker.
Vertical tastings are like opening a time capsule. Imagine trying the 2015 and 2018 vintages of Barolo side by side. The climate, the decisions made in the cellar, and even small tweaks in the vineyard management can all come into focus as you compare how each year’s botte has matured. These tastings reveal the subtleties that differentiate vintages - perhaps 2015 was warmer, producing a riper, more concentrated wine, while 2018 was cooler, resulting in brighter acidity and elegance. This process makes every bottle feel like a new chapter in a never-ending story.
In Italy, vertical tastings have long been a tradition, particularly among families who have produced wine for generations. It’s a point of pride for many producers to showcase how their wine holds up through the years, and it’s not uncommon to find winemakers pulling older vintages from their private cellars for this very purpose. A winemaker might sit down with friends or neighbors and share wines from their family’s historic vintages to compare, learn, and celebrate their terroir. This is part of the beauty of Italian wine culture - time, tradition, and craftsmanship coming together in the glass.
For Italians, vertical tastings are as much about family and legacy as they are about the wine itself. The experience often takes place at the winery, where generations of winemakers are still active in the vineyards. You’ll often find multi-generational tastings, where a father, son, and sometimes even the grandparents will lead you through the tasting, telling stories about what made each vintage special.
Italians see vertical tastings as a way to celebrate the longevity of their wines and the consistency of their vineyards. It’s about showcasing how well a wine can age and mature, improving over the decades. This is why wines from regions like Barolo, Brunello, and Chianti are perfect candidates for vertical tastings - these are wines built to last, revealing deeper complexities as they evolve.
This Week’s Featured Selections:
Barolo Riserva, Elio Grasso “Rüncot” 2015 & “Rüncot” 2010
Tucked into the rolling hills of Monforte d’Alba, the Grasso family has built a legacy of producing meticulously crafted Barolos that reflect their deep connection to the land. Elio Grasso, with his dedication to tradition and terroir-driven winemaking, is known for wines that are not only expressive in their youth but reveal untold layers as they age. His Barolo Riserva is a testament to patience, precision, and the art of letting Nebbiolo evolve naturally.
“Rüncot” 2015:
The 2015 vintage is nothing short of a symphony of ripe fruit and opulence. It bursts out of the glass with heady aromas of wild cherries, sun-warmed raspberries, and a luxurious touch of rose petals. Beneath the fruit lies a deeper complexity - subtle notes of leather and licorice begin to emerge, cradled by velvety tannins. On the palate, there is a seductive richness, with dark cherries and dried herbs swirling around a core of soft minerality. A decadent, almost hedonistic expression of Nebbiolo.
“Rüncot” 2010:
Then there’s the 2010 - a year that needs no introduction among Barolo devotees. Often heralded as a “classic” vintage, the 2010 Riserva shows impeccable structure and depth. Here we have a Barolo that whispers its complexity rather than shouting. It opens with more restrained, earthy notes - dried rose petals, crushed violets, and the unmistakable scent of freshly turned soil after a rain. The tannins are firm, almost architectural, wrapping themselves around an inner core of black cherries, tar, and that telltale truffle earthiness so beloved in Barolo. As the wine breathes, layers of tobacco, anise, and a faint trace of black tea unfurl in the glass, revealing a wine that is both stoic and enchanting.
Tasting these two wines side by side is an exercise in the art of Nebbiolo. The 2015 is still in its youthful exuberance, displaying the vibrancy of a warmer year, while the 2010 shows the timeless elegance of a vintage built to last. Both wines are undoubtedly tied to the same vineyard, yet they tell very different stories-one of immediacy and joy, the other of patience and quiet revelation.
Brunello di Montalcino, Salvioni Giulio “Cerbaiola” 2019 & “Cerbaiola” 2009
Salvioni Giulio is one of the most revered names in all of Montalcino. The Salvioni estate is small but mighty, producing wines that are pure, elegant, and deeply tied to the terroir of their historic Cerbaiola vineyard. With conscientious attention to detail, Giulio Salvioni has crafted Brunellos that stand shoulder to shoulder with the finest in the region. These wines, with their signature balance of power and finesse, reflect a deep respect for tradition and an understanding of how Brunello can evolve over time.
“Cerbaiola” 2019:
The 2019 vintage is a dazzling snapshot of what Salvioni does best - creating wines that are beautifully structured yet achingly elegant. On the nose, the wine opens with a rush of ripe red cherries, crushed violets, and rosemary, followed by deeper notes of dark plum and hints of blood orange. The palate is tight yet refined, with fine tannins and mouthwatering acidity framing a core of tart cherries, dried herbs, and an underlying minerality that speaks to the vineyard’s exceptional terroir. It is a fresh, exciting interpretation of Brunello that holds promise in every sip.
“Cerbaiola” 2009:
The 2009 vintage, by contrast, is a masterclass in aged Brunello. After 15 years in the bottle, this wine has evolved into something truly remarkable. The nose is intoxicating, with a bouquet of dried rose petals, black cherries, and leather, all wrapped in earthy tones of tobacco and forest floor. There’s a delicate balance of sweetness and savoriness here, as hints of licorice and dark chocolate interweave with more mature, developed flavors. On the palate, the tannins have softened to a silky smoothness, creating a wine that feels seamless - an effortless glide of ripe blackberries, cedar, and a touch of balsamic reduction. As the wine breathes, it reveals even more depth, with notes of truffle, tar, and an undercurrent of graphite adding to its complexity. The finish is long and mesmerizing, a slow fade of fruit, spice, and earth that lingers beautifully. The 2009 is proof that Salvioni’s wines pay off, as the Cerbaiola vineyard continues to gift us wines that blossom into true works of art with age.
Drinking these vintages together is an unparalleled opportunity to witness the evolution of Brunello di Montalcino from one of its most dedicated producers. The 2019 bursts with youthful exuberance and energy, while the 2009 showcases the mature, layered elegance that only time can bring. Both wines are unmistakingly tied to the Cerbaiola vineyard, yet each tells a unique story of its vintage and the hands that crafted it.
In a vertical tasting, each glass offers a chapter of the vineyard’s story - a special glimpse into the craftsmanship, climate, and character that define each vintage. Experiencing these wines side by side allows us to appreciate the nuances of age and evolution, showcasing how time shapes the soul of a great wine. This journey through vintages deepens our understanding of the producer’s vision and the terroir’s influence.Whether you’re a seasoned influence. Whether you’re a seasoned connoisseur or exploring verticals for the first time, there’s magic in witnessing the transformation of these wines. Cheers to the elegance of aged wines and the journey they take us on with each sip!
