Cellar Raid Highlight: Friuli-Venezia Giulia
Hidden in Italy’s far northeastern corner, Friuli-Venezia Giulia is a region of hidden allure and striking contrasts. Its vineyards unfold between the Alps and the Adriatic Sea, where the landscape shifts dramatically from jagged mountains to rolling hills and sun-drenched plains. This diverse topography, combined with the confluence of Italian, Slovenian, and Austrian cultures, has shaped Friuli into a unique melting pot of traditions, flavors, and winemaking prowess.
Friuli’s history is one of resilience and reinvention. For centuries, the region has been at the crossroads of empires, invaded and ruled by everyone from the Romans to the Venetians to the Hadsburgs. This mix of influences has left an indelible mark on Friuli’s culture and its approach to winemaking. Local winemakers, inspired by both Old World and modern techniques, have become some of Italy’s most innovative, focusing on precision and purity of expression.
The region’s winemaking landscape began to flourish in the 20th century, when a group of visionary producers revolutionized white wine production by introducing temperature-controlled fermentation in stainless-steel tanks. This innovation set the stage for Friuli to become renowned for its white wines, characterized by their intense minerality, clarity, and ability to capture the essence of the terroir.
Ribolla Gialla is a grape that embodies Friuli’s historical depth. First mentioned in documents dating back to the 13th century, Ribolla Gialla was once a favorite at medieval banquets and noble courts. It thrived under Venetian rule, gaining a reputation as a wine of prestige. Today, it is celebrated for its versatility and vibrancy.
While Ribolla Gialla tells the story of Friuli’s white wine revolution, Pignolo speaks to the region’s dedication to preserving its viticulture heritage. Almost lost in the mid-20th century due to its finicky nature and low yields, this bold red grape was rescued by a few intrepid winemakers who saw its potential. The result is a wine that is both muscular and refined, offering aromas of blackberry, dark cherry, and a hint of spice.
Wine in Friuli is not just something you drink; it’s a reflection of the land and the people. The food in Friuli, much like its wine, bridges the gap between cultures and landscapes. From the delicate herb-infused broths of Carnia mountains to the seafood-laden feasts of the coastal towns, Friuli’s cuisine offers a spectrum of flavors that highlight local ingredients like Montasio cheese, wild herbs, and hearty polenta. Prosciutto di San Daniele, with its delicate sweetness and melt-in-your-mouth texture, pairs seamlessly with the region’s fresh whites, while the robust reds like Pignolo stand up to the savory and smokier dishes of the inland hills.
Raise a glass to Friuli, where every sip is a story of history, culture, and the pursuit of quality!
This Week’s Featured Selections:
Bin 855N - Ribolla, Gravner 2014
The Gravner Ribolla 2014 is a profound and captivating expression of Friuli’s ancient winemaking heritage. A stunning amber-hued wine, it showcases the depth and complexity that can only come from meticulous skin-contact fermentation in amphorae, followed by extended aging in large oak casks. On the nose, it unfolds with layers of dried apricot, orange zest, chamomile, and roasted nuts, interwoven with intriguing hints of wild herbs and balsam. The palate is at once expansive and focused, balancing a rich, textural mouthfeel with vibrant acidity and a gripping, tannic backbone. As it evolves in the glass, Gravner’s Ribolla reveals a core of savory minerality, finishing long and ethereal with nuances of honeyed spice and saline. This is a wine of profound depth, precision, and elegance - a singular, age-worthy masterpiece that embodies the pioneering spirit of one of Italy’s most revered natural winemakers.
Pairings: Parmigiano-Reggiano, Pecorino, Taleggio, Cocoa Tagliatelle
Bin 426B - Colli Orientali del Friuli Pignolo, Moschioni 2007
The Moshioni Colli Ortientali di Friuli Pignolo is a rare gem that perfectly captures the essence of Friuli’s most revered and complex red grape. This vintage radiates with depth and character, unveiling an opulent bouquet of ripe blackberries, dried cherries, and wild plums layered with tobacco, leather, and dark spice. On the palate, it’s intensely structured yet refined, with muscular tannins and a vibrant acidity that carry through to a finish of dark chocolate, espresso, and a touch of smokey minerality. With over a decade of aging, this wine showcases Moschioni’s mastery in harnessing the Pignolo’s raw power and taming it into a polished, age-worthy expression that will captivate any wine drinker. A testament to Friuli’s ability to produce world-class reds, this Pignolo is an absolute must-have for those seeking something truly extraordinary.
Pairings: Gnocchetti with Cinghiale Ragù, Pan Roasted Leg of Lamb
Bin 434B - Rosso, Gravner “Breg” 2007
Gravner’s Rosso “Breg” is a profound exploration of Friuli’s native Pignolo grape, transformed by Josko Gravner’s signature approach that blends ancient tradition with modern precision. Fermented in clay amphorae and aged for years in oak, this wine emerges with remarkable depth and complexity. On the nose, it reveals layers of blackberry, dried cherry, and crushed herbs, intertwined with nuances of sweet tobacco, leather, and a subtle smokiness. The palate is powerful yet impeccably balanced, with finely integrated tannins and a vibrant acidity that carries through to a long, intricate finish marked by notes of dark cocoa, clove, and earthy minerality. The Rosso “Breg” 2007 is bold and sophisticated wine that defies conventions, inviting you to experience the essence of Friulian red wines in its purest form - rich, contemplative, and utterly unforgettable.
Pairings: Grilled Magret of Duck, Pan Roasted Leg of Lamb